Cochin: Colonial charm and some of the best food in India

A slight sigh of relief escaped our mouths.  A promise of relaxation.  We easily took in Cochin’s down-tempo. In four lazy days we strolled along the Chinese fisher-nets, ate at “dal roti” with Dan and Mads (our favorite restaurant, which we visited nearly every day with perhaps the best food in all of India), endured the heat with ice-cold beers, and simply sat idly as one is expected to do in a slow southern city. Something about Cochin felt like Savannah or some forgotten plantation town in Mississippi with trees overtaken by slow-moving vines, white houses with closed shudders, and a general sultriness that permeates everything. We stayed directly in Fort Cochin on the seaside, facing West, away from the madness of the interior. For an afternoon we braved Ernakulum, which was just like any other midsize, hectic Indian city. After swimming in a dinky rooftop pool in a futile attempt to escape the heat, we gladly returned to the Fort. For our last night, coinciding with Mari’s arrival, Dan treated us to an amazing dinner at the Malabar house (one of very few flirtations with luxury while in India). As our first introduction to Kerala, Cochin already felt like a very different India. Besides the occasional hints of communism, it was clear that Kerala’s social environment incorporated more progressive ideas.

the tress in Cochin were awake, alive, slowly taking over space

romantic strolls

colonial vestiges

Saint Francis Church

on the ferry to Ernakulum

trying to cool off in Ernakulum in a tepid rooftop pool with locals showing off new and interesting strokes.

dan and grego at “dal roti”, waiting for the famous ‘kati roll’ to arrive

fishermen at the waterfront

Chinese fisher-nets

what’s for dinner?…

…reef shark, obviously

standing next to a fisherman, in perfect zen silence…then, uaaah, he pulls out a huge eel towards our feet, suffocates him, and then throws him back in the water! terrible. “For shame! Why not smoke it?” (says Vivien)

in front of our home stay we loved watching the kids under the trees.

cricket games everywhere

hmmm…postmodern? post-something

a red corner


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